Thursday 2 May 2013

DAY 3

DAY 3  Tuesday 2nd April, 2013
 
I love the smell of Deet in the morning!
 
It’s 5.30am and the sun is starting to rise.  Everyone’s waking up.  The NGH children are already doing their chores and getting ready for school.  As Experience Challenge Team members we’re all doing a lot of “faffing” around with the contents of our cases!  Today’s the day we go to meet and live with our host families.  I think we’re all feeling a little bit apprehensive.

Breakfast with the AfriKids Team at the Next Generation Home
Our Bolga breakfast arrives… toasted bread, egg and cucumber/tomato sandwiches.  Our daily routine starts with one malaria tablet, one re-hydration sachet in a bottle of water followed by the pungent aroma of Deet combined with subtle overtones of high factor sun cream!  Not the most delicate of scents but proves a more effective repellent than Coco Chanel.

Meeting the Hosts Families
 
At the meeting point, I am now seriously questioning why I signed up for this Challenge!  What an earth am I doing in the middle of West Africa going to live with people I’ve never spoken with, let alone met, before.  I’m now starting to feel very much out of my comfort zone.  Actually, I want to go home now.

Experience Challenge Team meeting their host families
Veronica from the “Thy Will Be Done” hair salon is the first host to arrive.  Veronica is part of the Talensi-Nabdam Area Project which provides young people with role models and opportunities for apprenticeships.  A remarkable woman, she has trained over 20 women with the skills to start their own business. 

Veronica from Thy Will Be Done Hairdressers & Jane 
 
Shaking her hand, I pass on a message from one of the A&O Experience Challenge Team 2012 and catch myself saying “Tibil says hello from New York!  This makes Veronica smile and I learn that each family gives their guest a nickname.  Tibil means “little tree”.  I sense the Ghanaians have a good sense of humour – I’m sure Tibil is well over 6ft tall!

 
My host - Samuel, Headteacher
 
Next to arrive is Madame Mary quickly followed by my host, Samuel, on a motorbike.  Straightaway I am back out of my comfort zone with visions of riding pillion on the motorbike amongst pot holes and the free range animals!  Samuel is the Head Teacher at a local Junior High School and is married to Bridget, the Community Nurse.

Samuel and his wife, Bridget

After introductions and getting to know everyone it’s time for AfriKids to drop each of us off with our families.  I’m trying to hide the feeling of terror with a fixed smile! Believe me, at this point I am scared. 

Samuel and Bridget’s compound home is more decorative than others. It has cheery blue flowers and shapes painted onto the mud walls. AfriKids drop me off with my case, mosquito net, several boxes of bottled water and a motorcycle helmet. Apprehensively, I wave goodbye as I watch them drive off into the distance!


 
Samuel & Bridget's Family Home
 
The compound is compact with chickens running underfoot.  I drop my things off in a small room, grab some water and my crash helmet and it’s straight off to school… yes, on the bike!  The last time I was on the back of a motorbike was when I was about 17… so the first journey to school was spent clinging on to my host for dear life. 


We stop for petrol which is sold on the roadside from an array of 1L glass, screw top bottles – it's the petrol station equivalent of a corner shop.  Next stop is the local “spot” for some Alvaro pear mineral drinks.  This is the moment I realise that being of short stature makes getting on and off the motorbike a rather comedic sight!!

Lorge Junior High School

I am terrified travelling on the back of the motorbike as we leave the main road to go cross country towards Lorge JHS.  Despite Samuel being a careful driver, I am concerned that he will soon be starved of oxygen given my intense grip around his chest.  Luckily, we make it to the school in one piece and quite possibly in the case of Samuel, one breath!  

Lorge Junior High School 

Speaking the Language

My next challenge is meeting the teachers and speaking the local dialect.  All the teachers are very welcoming though burst into laughter when I attempt to speak in Fra Fra.  This is the language spoken in Northern Ghana, particularly the Upper East Region, and the southern part of Burkina Faso.  Fra Fra is made up of five principal dialects.  In the Talensi-Nabdam region the language spoken is Nabt. My attempts at using the customary word “namba” after each greeting is very much hit and miss so I try my luck at “wentanga”, meaning good afternoon, and “neposaya”, meaning “thank you”.

I can safely say I do not possess a flair for languages! I also resist the urge to break out into my own regional dialect with the traditional Essex greetings of … “Oi Oi” and “Awright My Son”!  

Handshakes

Greetings are a very important part of the Ghanaian culture and welcoming each person individually and asking how they are is considered polite.  So, doing my best to pick up a new language, I greet everyone with a handshake and a smile and they delight in showing me how to shake hands Ghanaian-style.  This involves shaking hands in the usual way then sliding your thumb and fingers together down the other person’s hand and breaking off with a snap of the fingers. 
Learn how to do this here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c1CEWcCnyAk

Meeting the Children

The first Junior School class I go to has the words “Painted by Allen & Overy” above the door.  It’s an odd moment, being in the middle of Africa, on my own, with people I hardly know and yet, in front of me, the well known name of the company I spent over a decade with.  A slightly surreal moment.

Experience Challenge Team Community Project, 2012
 
Lorge JHS

The children at Lorge JHS are all looking very smart in brown and yellow school uniforms and greet me with enthusiasm and big smiles.  They are very polite and speak good English.  I am struck by the bareness of the classrooms, the lack of resources, basic furniture and some of the children only wearing worn out flip-flops (known as slippers) on their feet.
 
 Pupils at Lorge JHS
 
Water Borehole

On our way to the nearby Kindergarten, we pass the bore hole where children are collecting water for their school.  I have a go!  It’s hard work pumping water in the heat and I am amazed how many litres can be balanced on top a child’s head and expertly carried without spilling. 
 
 
 
Each day the children fill the large water containers which sit outside the classrooms.  It’s a far cry from being able to turn a tap on to get a drink of water but it does mean the children will spend more time in class and less time missing their education to get such basic necessities such as a drink of water.  For all you supporters of World Vision… take a closer look!

 Water Containers donated by World Vision

Kindergarten

Next we go to meet the younger children at the Kindergarten.  I hear shouts of “solamina”, which means white person, as little children frantically run around and point to me.  Some of these children have never seen a white person before – there is a mix of disbelief and curiosity on their faces.    

Meeting the school children at the infants 

Some of the younger children are sharing a class following a recent thunder storm which partially tore the roof off their building.  There is no furniture in this classroom and no table for the teacher, however, there is an abundance of warm welcomes as they stand to sing me a song.  AfriKids said it would also be an emotional challenge and already I’m starting to see why.

  
 

Ghanaian Dress Codes 

Samuel and I go to meet the Head Teacher of the Kindergarten who shares photos of traditional Ghanaian dress for men comprising striped hand woven smocks, brightly coloured kente cloths and the chief’s elaborate regalia which distinguishes him from the group. 
 
He explains the importance of dress, the use of colour and how people can tell which region you are from by what you are wearing.  As an image consultant, it’s great to be talking in the same dialect for this is a language I do understand!

Going to the Headmaster’s Office

Having met the staff and children in each class at the Junior High school and paid a visit to the Kindergarten next door, I am now in the Head Teacher’s office.  On the wall there are last year’s photos of the A&O Experience Challenge Team busily painting the school classrooms as part of their team activity for the local community.  

End of the School Day

2pm marks the end of the school day.  Starting at 8am for registration and taking a break for lunch the children all leave at 2pm.  For many this means a long walk back to their family’s compound home to help with farming, collecting water for the family and preparing dinner by grinding groundnuts, maize etc with a pestle and mortar. 

Family Introductions

It’s time to get back on the motorbike – I’m on tiptoes trying to get on the back!  We travel to the local market in Kongo and take a look round before stopping at “Thy Will Be Done” hair salon owned by Veronica.  This is where Som (also on the Experience Challenge) is staying.  Samuel introduces us to the delights of street food, especially “Fried Yams”, which are like the biggest chips you’ve ever seen!  They come with a peppery dry spice dip and are indeed yummy-yams!

Local Hair & Beauty Salon
 
Then it’s quickly onto a “spot” (bar) to try the local brew, Pito.  Made from fermented millet or sorghum and served in a calabash bowl – it’s strong enough to put hair on your chest.  Here I meet Samuel’s sister, brother-in-law, nephew and other family members and friends. 

The Compound Home 


Back at the compound, I feel hot, tired and rather dazed by the amount of people I have been introduced to today.  Adjusting to the heat takes a while. It’s 37˚C and to avoid dehydration I’ve already drunk 3.5L of water today!  

I take some time out while Samuel and his nephew, Cali, continue building a mud hut for the family’s goats and pigs.  I am absolutely shattered.
  
The temperature cools as the sun goes down at around 6pm and everyone is getting ready to settle down for the evening.  I give Bridget (Samuel’s wife) gifts of metal cooking utensils (as recommended by AfriKids).  Bridget shows me around her home. 
 
Then she politely shows me where the best places are to go to the toilet outside of the compound, identifying a tree and some secluded bush land.  I haven’t been looking forward to the lack of toilet facilities but the tree looks ok! 
 
Bridget then asks me if I would like to take my bath.

Bathtime!

Taking a bath = one small open air room + a bucket of cold water!  I wasn’t quite sure what I was expecting, after all there isn’t any running water.  I shut the “bathroom” door and immediately plunge my feet one at a time into the bucket in an effort to cool down.   At about the same time I realise I also have to wash my face in the same water! 

There is obviously an art to bathing in a bucket.  It’s a new experience and rather magical bathing under the stars.  Not many UK bathrooms can boast an open air ceiling illuminated by the stars!  The application of whiffy mosquito repellent shatters the moment but is a necessary precaution in an area where the risk of Malaria is high.  More worryingly, the strength of the Deet actually appears to be melting my flip-flops!!

Evening Dinner

We sit down later in the evening for dinner which comprises a ground nut soup with chicken and fish served with rice balls.  It reminds me of a menu from BBC’s MasterChef and suddenly I am missing home, my family and the dog.  Samuel & Bridget tell me that as part of their family they will call me “Yenmah” which means God Mother. 
 
After dinner we share stories and photos of friends and family. Samuel’s dog it sitting by my feet and it strikes me that family life across the world is not so different really. Samuel & Bridget have a very kind and friendly family. 
 

At 9pm we set up everyone’s beds with mosquito nets outside in the middle of the compound.  At home this would be the equivalent of the whole family sleeping outside in a line on the patio!  Most families sleep outside as it’s cooler than being inside the mud huts which have small windows and little ventilation.  I’m so tired I’m out like a light.

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